Christian Dior opened at Paris Haute Couture week in spectacular style this afternoon with a breathtaking show - the first in 14 years without designer John Galliano at the helm.
The disgraced creative head was fired by Dior for his 'odious behaviour' in March after news broke of an alleged anti-semitic attack in a Paris bar.
Instead it was 51-year-old Bill Gaytten - part of the design team at Dior for 23 years - and head of the lable's studio - who took a bow at the end of the show, along with his assistant, Susanna Venegas.
Runway success: Christian Dior's autumn/winter show was a riot of pattern and colour, with undulating Frank Gehry-inspired lines creating architectural drama"
And today, the shadow hanging over Galliano proved not to trouble the designer, as he showed a lighthearted collection that was a spectacular riot of colour.
Astonishingly for an autumn/winter collection, the catwalk came alive with bright tones - and there was absolutely no fur.
Models took to the catwalk in fairy-tale dresses crafted from layers of candy-hued tulle that swirled in ruffles about their hips, falling in sumptuous folds to the floor.
Sharp: Box pleat skirts and structured jackets created angular silhouettes, while bold prints added interest"
Contrast: Diaphanous chiffon was sliced through with vivid tones, while candy box colours and architectural shapes made for an exuberant collection"
Soft ribbons of chiffon in soft macaron hues contrasted with geometric monochrome prints, and elsewhere diaphanous chiffon was sliced through with vibrant hues of cobalt and crimson.
Many themes ran through the show, from Gehry to David Hockney's pop art brights and a couture take on Pierrot, but the common thread running through the show was clearly Mr Gaytten's talent for fine tailoring, with delicate pleats, ruffles and texture reigning.
Brightening up: Macaron hues contrasted with graphic monotone prints, while Gaytten's talent for tailoring was evident in the structure and texture of the fabric layers"
In Galliano's absence there was a new lightness to the Dior show; dramatic silhouettes had been replaced by the more ethereal aesthetic of the long-time backroom team.
Mr Gaytten's first taste of the spotlight came last week as he led the menswear collection in Paris for the first time.
Heralded by critics as a 'fine collection', it proved this shadow player could be a big hit.
Multitude of muses: An impressive Pierrot-inspired gown ended the well-received Christian Dior show"
The runway show staged by the French fashion house is always a highlight, but this year's show was made all the more landmark following the departure of Mr Galliano.
For the first time since 1997 when the designer was drafted in to shake up the label, the French fashion house showed without their flamboyant creative head.
Saying they operated a 'zero tolerance' attitude towards racism, the firm parted ways with Galliano while his court appearances were played out in the public eye. The court's verdict will be heard in September.
Well-received: Dior's studio head, Bill Gaytten, and his assistant Suzanna Venegas take their bow after the label's first collection without disgraced designer John Galliano at the helm"
Today a spokesman for Christian Dior told Vogue.com that Mr Gaytten's bow at the end of the couture show did not mean that he is the official successor to Galliano.
They explained that the designer's appearance was in his capacity as studio head, not creative director.
Later on today Giambattista Valli is to show for the first time on the couture circuit, while tomorrow sees shows from Armani Privé - the label chosen by Charlene for her Monaco wedding - Givenchy and Chanel.
No comments:
Post a Comment